How to Pack Boxes Properly (Sizes, Labelling, Fragile Items)
Updated 10 July 2026
Two things separate an easy unpack from a week of digging through unlabelled boxes: matching box size to what's actually going inside, and a labelling system you'll still be able to read after twelve hours of packing. Here's both.
Match the box size to the weight, not the item
| Box size | Best for |
|---|---|
| Small / book box | Books, tools, tinned pantry items — anything dense and heavy |
| Medium | Kitchenware, toys, small appliances, shoes |
| Large | Linen, cushions, lampshades, light bulky items |
| Wardrobe box | Hanging clothes straight from the closet |
The most common packing mistake is filling a large box with books because "it fits" — the box usually blows out at the bottom, or becomes too heavy for one person to lift safely. If it's heavy, it belongs in a small box, full stop.
A labelling system that survives moving day chaos
- Room name in large letters, on the top and one side. Boxes get stacked and turned — a label only on the top is invisible half the time.
- A one-word contents note. "Kitchen — pots" tells the crew far more than "Kitchen" alone when they're deciding what goes where first.
- A priority mark for day-one essentials. A coloured sticker or "OPEN FIRST" written boldly on anything with chargers, toiletries, medications or bedding — you don't want to be searching twenty identical boxes for a phone charger at 9pm.
Packing fragile items so they actually survive
- Wrap individually, not just cushioned in the box. Paper or bubble wrap around each item stops them knocking against each other, which is where most breakages happen.
- Plates go on their edge, not flat. A stack of flat plates cracks under its own weight far more easily than plates stood on edge like records.
- Fill every gap. Scrunched paper in every empty corner stops items shifting — an item with room to move is an item that'll crack against the box wall.
- Mark it "FRAGILE" and "THIS WAY UP" on every side. Not just the top — boxes get tilted and stacked in ways you can't control once they're on the truck.
For anything too large to box — furniture, mirrors, artwork — see our full guide to wrapping furniture properly.
Don't over-tape, and don't under-tape
Two strips across the bottom seam and one down each side edge is enough for a well-packed box. Over-taping doesn't add strength once the seam is sealed — it just makes boxes harder to open and slower to unpack on the other end.
Packed and labelled properly, a house's worth of boxes turns from chaos into a system. Get a fixed quote for the move itself, or read our full moving checklist for everything else on the timeline.
Frequently asked questions
What size boxes should I use to pack for a move?
Small boxes for heavy, dense items like books — a full large box of books is often too heavy to lift safely. Medium boxes suit kitchenware and toys. Large boxes are for light, bulky items like linen and lampshades. Matching weight to box size, not just fitting the items in, is what prevents blown-out bottoms.
What's the best way to label moving boxes?
Label every box with the destination room in large letters on the top and one side (so it's visible whichever way it's stacked), plus a one-word contents note and a priority mark for anything you need on day one — a coloured sticker system works well for this.
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